Bali is an island of profound beauty, small but unique in variety. Dramatic high mountains and rugged seascapes are backdrops to artfully terraced rice fields, jewel toned crater lakes and river ravines in the manner of a Henri Rousseau painting. Tigers no longer roam the forests where monkeys, tropical birds and butterflies continue to live in abundance. A profusion of flowers and luxurious tropical foliage are no surprise in this paradise where warm temperatures are near constant year round, soils are enriched by volcanic ash and tropical rains create a greenhouse environment.
Alfred Russell Wallace traveled the Indonesian archipelago in 1869 and discovered the flora and fauna typical of Asia ends in Bali. East of Bali and only 35 kilometers away lies the island of Lombok. The deep water Lombok Strait narrowly divides the two islands and marks a beginning of more primitive biological forms as found in Australia. Lombok is Arid and thorny while Bali is blessed with an endless variety of plant life some quite exotic in nature and all bountiful in production.
On Bali one is always aware of the plentiful extravagance of fruits and flowers: their presence is constantly and absolutely felt. The warm, gentle sea breezes of the night are perfumed with frangipani and jasmine while daytime activities embrace their availability. Flowers entwined in the hair or placed behind the ear of men and women are a natural accessory. Costumes of performers almost always include fresh blossoms, and petals are showered upon audiences as a welcome in the traditional pendet dance. Statues everywhere are arrayed with hibiscus blossoms jauntily stuck here and there. Each morning small woven canang offerings containing fresh flowers, rice and sweet-smelling grass are place on and in vehicles, on doorsteps of shops or in a curve of the path or road. Priest, women, men, and children hold blossoms in the fingertips during prayerful worship. If it is thought the hands have touched something impure, a flower blossom is rubbed between the fingers. Flowers represent purity, an offering from the gods that gives the gift of fragrance and beauty to the splendid garden of Bali.
Practically combined with beauty is the Balinese way in all aspects of life including their gardening. Gardens within the walls of traditional Balinese compounds or Bali villas are generally not particularly designed or laid out but are rather randomly planted. Any available open space is used for growing useful or edible plants, fruits and flowers. A typical compound is planted with staples such as coconut, banana, citrus, rambutan, coffee, mango, pineapple, and papaya. Flowering trees and shrubs are valued for beautifying the compound as well as providing blossoms for use in the constant making of offerings. Compounds in the higher elevations or north Bali may have apple trees or the delicious salak which has a crunchy sweet texture like a crisp apple but with a nutty flavor the outer skin of the salak could easily be mistaken for brown snakeskin.
A familiar late afternoon sight is that of grandfather returning home from gathering grasses, sarong tucked up in pantaloon-fashion, carrying a large bamboo basket of greens for his beautiful cow. Young boys and old men alike cut wild grasses to provide feed for the cows, goats, and pigs kept in pens within the family compound or on tethers. There are no meadows for grazing as land has a premium value for cultivation of rice. The daily practice of cutting grass and weeds is a practical tradition that assures tidy roadsides and manicured pathways, including the terraced rice field paths.
A practical unity of people and nature is the environment of Balinese life. Garden courtyards are not just to be seen but to be touched, felt, smelt, and used. Balinese compounds consist of interrelated open spaces surrounded by walls with four or more open pavilions. Pavilions placed within Bali villa compound walls create courtyards as extended living spaces outdoors. Interplay of closed and open spaces provides an inner harmony, a balance of the yin and yang, that same philosophy of opposites evident throughout the Balinese culture.
There are contradictory and multiple levels of meaning in architectural planning of space surrounded by walls yet once inside the Bali villa there is in fact an interaction of space. Although there is simplicity outside the compound walls, inside the area there is a complexity of many pavilions and sheds. Walls are directional yet static as a place. These themes of complexity and contradiction are those seen in every aspect of the style of Bali tension within tranquility in architecture or in fabric design, dance, gamelan music even within the subtle natures of the Balinese people there is contradiction and complexity.
The exotic garden paradise of Bali and its remarkable culture will hopefully be able to remain as true to itself as the waringin family tree, continually putting down new roots while remembering their ancestral ways.